Anyone who has ever visited South Tyrol in autumn will have heard the word ‘Törggelen’.
Törggelen is an old custom – mainly along the South Tyrolean Wine Road and in the Isarco Valley – that stems from the time of the grape harvest. Originally celebrated in the winegrowers’ cellars, Törggelen has since developed into a public festival that takes place in many inns and wine taverns. The main attractions are wine, chestnuts, Schlutzkrapfen and speck – all local delicacies. However, Törggelen is not just a culinary journey, but also a celebration of togetherness, where you can experience the warm hospitality of South Tyrol.
Origin of Törggelen
The name Törggelen comes from the ‘Torggl’ – the name given to the wine press in South Tyrol. In the past, family, friends, wine merchants and all the harvest workers used to get together after the wine press to drink and savour the successful harvest.
The fresh ‘Sußer’ (grape must in the first days of fermentation) and young wine were drunk, and simple South Tyrolean dishes such as speck, rye bread and Kaminwurzen were served.
Törggelen today
Today, Törggelen is often used as a get-together with friends and family and no longer only simple dishes are served, but there is usually a large selection of different specialities. For starters, typical South Tyrolean dishes such as barley soup, liver dumpling soup, tris (cheese dumplings, spinach dumplings and Schlutzkrapfen – rye dumplings with a spinach and curd cheese filling) are served.
For the main course, a meat platter is placed in the centre and everyone helps themselves to it. The platter is usually filled with quite hearty dishes such as ribs, sauerkraut, fried potatoes, various types of sausage (house sausage and black pudding) and surfleisch. These are served with mustard and cress.
For dessert, ‘Keschtn’ (roasted chestnuts) and sweet doughnuts filled with jam are served. The house wine of the tavern and a schnapps to round off the meal are offered alongside.
Törggelen hike
Törggelen is usually combined with a hike through the vineyards, where every colour is reflected in the leaves of the vines. Breathe in the fresh autumn air and enjoy the warm autumn sun on your face. During the hike, you stop off at various wine taverns to enjoy a glass of the ‘new wine’ before continuing on your hike. You can then enjoy the food at the last wine tavern, where you can linger longer and round off the evening and the hike.
Tips for Törggelen
- For the last tavern where you want to stay longer and dine, a reservation is definitely recommended. Demand is very high during these weeks and supply is limited.
- Well thought-out equipment makes the whole experience much more enjoyable. Warm clothing, good shoes and being prepared for all weathers – the typical onion look is particularly suitable for Törggelen, as it is usually very warm in the parlours and gets cool outside towards the evening.
- The right company makes all the difference! Toasting with your loved ones and singing songs will let you enjoy your time together.
- For vegans and vegetarians, it is certainly an advantage to make sure in advance that there is something for everyone, as Törggelen is usually very meat-heavy.
- Drink a glass of water in between, then the next day will be a lot easier to handle.